| Clubbing |
Lux is one of the main reasons clubbers come to Lisbon.
It is the brainchild of Manuel Reis, the gentleman who was
once behind Fragil (the club of clubs in the 80s, which
is still doing very nicely, thank you, in the Bairro Alto).
Lux is another vast building in the Docas area, flaunting
a kind of shimmering retro cool and DJs such as Rui Vargas
(house) and Dinis and Nuno Forte (breakbeat and jungle).
Gilles Peterson sometimes even shows up to present one of
his spectacular sets. In the wee small hours, anybody who
is anybody winds up at Lux. Downstairs is stacked to the
rafters with a squirmy, sweaty crowd of dancing devotees,
whereas upstairs is a little more loungey. There's a lot
of posing and pouting and posturing, as the hipsters recline
on the 60s-chic sofas, sucking their caiphirinhas through
artfully angled straws.
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| Shopping |
Obviously, you'll want to do a spot of shopping.
Portugal is famous for shoes, and beyond the traditional range
there are even footwear emporiums such as Sneakers Delight (Rua
do Norte 30-32, Bairro Alto), which boasts a DJ after 7pm. Beyond
the La Perla and Mac outlets, there is also a rash of young,
Portuguese designers' boutiques in Chiado and Bairro Alto. If
you're looking for records, V-Records (Rua do Diario de Noticias
67-69, Bairro Alto) is a good bet, with stacks of vinyl, including
everything from drum'n'bass to soul classics.
Lisbon does, of course, boast the ubiquitous shopping centre.
Only it is a mammoth beast, out-of-town, multi-levelled and
maze-like. If you are attempting to sample its delights on a
Sunday afternoon, with a hangover resting on your head like
a large elk, perhaps think again. The pain will only be exacerbated
by the bright colours, the stench of popcorn and all the cheery-eyed
families enjoying their weekend shopping trip oblivious to your
suffering.
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| Caiphirinha |
If you haven't drunk a caiphirinha,
you haven't lived. It's actually a Brazilian concoction, but
the Portuguese are dab hands at making them, too. The recipe
is something along the lines of 1 lime, 2oz of cachaca, brown
sugar to taste and lots of ice cubes, but it simply doesn't
taste the same unless you're perched in a smokey Lisbon bar
at 2am, where the plump lady on the next table is sharing
cheesecake with her dog. |
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| Food |
Good food is in plentiful supply in Lisbon, although
sometimes the cuisine can be a little on the heavy side. Not
too clever if you're looking to cut some rug later that evening.
If you're not too busy sampling the counter-top delights of
the pastelerias, you may wish to investigate some of the city's
many gourmet restaurants. The Alcantara Café should be
seen to be believed, an exquisite, high-ceilinged, art-deco
establishment, and the food is delicious.
 It's
a very hip crowd who dine at Bica do Sapato, the sister restaurant
to the Lux nightclub. A stone's throw from the club itself,
it's a big square building on the docks, the sort of place you
might expect Starsky and Hutch to be skulking around on the
lookout for clues. Inside, however, it is terribly plush. Huge
mirrors, deep red walls, funkily mis-matched chairs and light-fittings
like space-pods looming overhead. Oh, and the food is nice,
too.
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| Puddings |
| The Portuguese are particularly good at puddings.
Many of them were invented by 18th-century monks,and have acquired
names such as angel's breasts (papos de anjo) and nun's belly
(barriga de freira). I'm especially fond of the tiny, pocket-sized
egg custards, which can be sprinkled with cinnamon for added
scrumptiousness. Bakers will packet them up for you by the dozen,
with shiny white paper and string. The finest examples come
from the Belem district, and it is well worth making a visit
to the blue-tiled Pasteis de Belem (Rua de Belem 88) to taste
them when they're still warm. There's no better way to unwind
after a night on the tiles. |
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| The general districts |
The Baixa, known as the lower town, is the heart
of Lisbon with its many shops, banks and offices. The grid-like
streets bustle with pedestrians, street entertainers and pavement
artists, with many roads still maintaining their traditional
business such as Rua do Ouro (Goldsmith's Street) and Rua dos
Sapateiros (Cobblers' Street). Mosaic-decorated squares, tiled
shopfronts, traditional craft shops and bakeries (pastelerias)
lend the area a terrific atmosphere.
 Rossio
is the liveliest square (at the northern end of the Baixa grid),
and home to numerous outdoor cafes. On the north side stands
the Teatro Nacional de Dona Maria II - the Inquisitional Palace
before the 1755 earthquake and the site of public hangings,
burning of heretics and bullfights.
If you're after good shopping, Chiado, west of the Baixa, remains
the most stylish destination. Although much of Chiado was damaged
in the 1988 fire, it still contains various fashionable shops
and old-style tearooms, many of which were frequented by Lisbon's
great intellectuals.
For hustle and bustle, walk down to Cais do Sodré along
the river, where market life comes alive - in particular, the
large fish market as merchants bargain for the best deals. Also
worth visiting is the Ribeira market with its colourful displays
of fruit, flowers, vegetables and spices. The Zona Ribeirinha
(waterfront), better known as Docas, is also one of the city's
main nightspots.
Lisbon's most characteristic area is the Bairro Alto, (literally
the 'high quarter'), located above the Baixa with stunning views
of the city. Atmospheric at all times, but especially by night
when the many bars and restaurants fill with punters. Fado,
Portugal's national music, is also performed in the area's fado
houses. Wandering around the narrow streets and unusual shops
make for an enjoyable few hours. The most entertaining way to
reach the Bairro Alto is via the Elevador de Santa Justa from
Baixa.
Walking eastwards from the Baixa into the whitewashed streets
of the Alfama district, old Lisbon with its Moorish designs
remains very much intact. Crammed with buildings on tiny streets
and numerous alleys, local shops and cafes outnumber tourist
traps. The castle of São Jorge is nearby and worth visiting
for its stunning views of the city.
North of the city is the Avenida da Liberdade, lined with outdoor
cafes and en route to Lisbon's main park, Parque Eduardo VII
where glasshouses full of flamingo pools, exotic plants and
palms are breathtaking. For serious shopping, you can visit
Amoreiras, west of the park, a fantastical modern building containing
numerous cinemas, restaurants and shops. The nearby Fundação
Calouste Gulbenkian is the main cultural attraction, housing
an extraordinary collection of Eastern and Western art. |
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